In Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s spring collection, her evolving relationship with time serves as both a deliberate choice and a result of circumstance. Entering a phase of restlessness, which originated with her spring 2023 collection, Zadeh embarked on a creative journey. She ingeniously crafted experimental pieces from her textile archive, employing no-sew techniques and generating unconventional, not-for-sale designs. While skirts defying traditional waist circles may not find a broad market, the allure of spontaneity and fashion as fundamental coverings was undeniably exhilarating.

Continuing her process of self-discovery, Zadeh delved into her parents’ archives while conceptualizing the fall 2023 collection. Now, with spring 2024, she appears to have found her desired equilibrium—positioned between the past and the future.

Reflecting on her early design years, Zadeh admitted to a period of trial and error. As she evolved, she recognized that consumers preferred stability over rapid changes. This realization informed the latest collection, presenting a harmonious blend of remixes (such as a resurrected cardigan from the brand’s inaugural season) and innovative pieces. Zadeh effortlessly infuses a covetable sense of throwaway-chic into seemingly ordinary items like semi-sheer knits, a silk tunic, and ribbed melange tanks—a skill that remains shrouded in mystery yet is an established fact.

A standout piece in the lineup is a versatile wrap that doubles as a skirt or a dress, inspired by a ’90s cover-up worn by Zadeh’s mother. This easy-to-style scarf-topped skirt exudes a vacation-ready vibe while embodying the lived-in cool synonymous with Zadeh’s work. Describing her pursuit, Zadeh emphasized a desire for garments with spirit, lightness, and delicacy in their craftsmanship. The MNZ difference lies in the absence of preciousness in this breezy sensibility.

The collection, named Rush by Nassir Zadeh, underwent a swift shoot and styling post-customs release. This last-minute scenario compelled Zadeh to relinquish some control, adapting to the available time and materials. In an era dominated by dress-to-impress selfies and ‘fit pics, Zadeh’s aesthetic of spontaneity, evident even in the hurriedly styled lookbook, serves as a reminder that playing with fashion purely for the joy of it can still deliver a rush.