In his exploration for pre-fall, Daniel Del Core embraced reduction while maintaining the adventurous spirit seen in his spring show. Silhouettes were streamlined, and construction took on a concise approach, yet his imaginative laboratory led him to experiment with unconventional shapes, aiming to rejuvenate predictable templates. As he puts it, “My imagination works as a laboratory.”

Del Core, fascinated by microorganisms, draws inspiration from fungi, lichens, molds, algae, bacteria, and insects—creating a fantastical petri dish. Even in his visually restrained pieces, there’s an unsettling sci-fi glamour. For instance, a bustier in bonded jersey with upward protruding pointy breasts, reminiscent of rose thorns or the horns of a Caucasus beetle. This scarab, encountered on a trip to Peru, prompted Del Core to reflect on the protective shields that often conceal vulnerabilities. The interplay of rigid fabrics against malleable textures manifested in looks like an elongated strapless evening dress, straight-cut with an unruly cascade of quivering wool filaments on one side, resembling lichen on a tree.

A boxy black pantsuit featured lapels stretching into long flaps, reminiscent of cracked pods or shedding chrysalis. Some looks were adorned with an oblong black felt headpiece, reminiscent of a praying mantis’s triangular head. Less ominous inspirations led to a short red bustier dress resembling orchid petals, plissé pleats peeking from an ovoid cocoon skirt, and 3D tufted pom-poms mimicking moss on gloves and knits. Del Core’s wedding dress proposal featured a sleek tunic in white lace with abstract botanical motifs, overlaid by a soft cape armor with a triangular padded bustier flowing into a gown.

Celebrities like Beyoncé and Björk, drawn to Del Core’s entomologist eye, frequently collaborate with him. Recently, Björk donned one of his soft carapace creations at a concert in Nantes, France, exuding an otherworldly presence.