In his pursuit at Helmut Lang, Peter Do allocates four days each week, reserving the remaining day for his personal line, although he openly admits to working most weekends. Nurturing and revitalizing a contemporary brand of this magnitude demands a significant commitment. The scope of this venture dwarfs his previous endeavors, but Do finds motivation in the heightened ambition that comes with his current role.
His personal label adheres to a biannual showcase for efficiency, making the introduction of pre-season collections a novel experience. Having previously worked on the runway shows at Phoebe Philo’s Céline, where the emphasis was on the wow-factor, Do now navigates the rails of the Helmut Lang showroom with a quiet assurance, tackling new challenges with confidence. The result is a collection that exudes essential coolness, easily envisionable on store racks (with plans for a new flagship in SoHo).
This is particularly evident in Do’s approach to denim, where he seamlessly combines archival inspiration with contemporary flair. The handcrafted paint-splattered pieces, a signature of OG HL, are a testament to meticulous craftsmanship. Raw denim, featuring adaptable flap pockets, reflects Do’s commitment to versatility. The tailoring showcases an attention to detail uncommon at these price points, exemplified by the intricacies of the inner waistband of the trousers.
Occasionally, the designs flirt with excess, displaying surplus straps and oversized proportions. However, every zipper serves a purpose, with sleeves detaching from a leather biker jacket and pants transforming from straight-leg to flared or converting into shorts. One standout piece is the two-in-one bomber puffer in black with white accents.
